I go to the ocean at least every other day. It's 3 miles from where I live. Until we were 11, we lived 4 blocks from the ocean. My dad taught my twin and I how to body surf, probably when we were 5. Mark and I would walk to the pier and body surf 10 hours a day during the summer. When my dad got home from work, we would go body surf with him. It was safe and fun being a kid in California in the 50's.
I quickly learned that waves typically come in sets. Every so often you get a huge set. Very rarely there are days you get HUGE SETS one after the other after the other.
When you're swimming out to get into the right position to catch a wave, you often must work your way through waves that are just breaking right in your path. If you throw yourself into it with all your might and take all the punishment it can dish out you won't last more than 2 waves. You might even drown.
You learn to take the biggest breath possible and then go under the wave and hug the floor so you know which way is up and can push off the bottom to the surface as quickly as possible when it's force subsides.
Fighting to quit is like fighting the ocean. This is why many give up.
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Willingess NOT Willpower
